Original and unpublished manuscript by “Jean Cocquebert de Roquelaure de Reims”, dated 1647; 1 title leaf and 216 folios numbered in ink (431 pp. of text), including 2 ff. of a “Table of Towns and Other Places Contained in this Book” at the end. The full list of towns and villages cited in the manuscript is provided at the end of this description.
Full limp vellum binding, smooth spine with a calf lettering piece. Some dampstaining; one quire detached.
During the closing years of the Thirty Years’ War, a traveller from Reims named Jean Cocquebert, set down in this exceptional manuscript the entirety of his seven‑month journey through France and Italy in the year 1647. From Lyon to Marseille, where he embarked for Genoa, Cocquebert carries us on to Rome and Venice, allowing the reader to grasp the intimate, day‑by‑day ordeal of the long journey to the Eternal City and La Serenissima.
In southern France, Cocquebert describes in detail each stage, every hamlet and every inn in the Lyonnais, Dauphiné, Comtat Venaissin, Provence, and Languedoc regions which he explores even more thoroughly on his return route to Lyon. He records in particular a visit in Aix‑en‑Provence to the cabinet of curiosities of “a good old man,” geographically identifiable from his description as that of the celebrated notary Boniface Borrilli (visited by King Louis XIII in 1622) as well as to the famed botanical garden of the Montpellier Faculty of Medicine, where he encounters “a maid in this garden who speaks Latin better than French, which makes those who hear her jargon laugh.” We follow closely his pilgrimage to the sanctuary of Mary Magdalene at Sainte‑Baume (much mutilated during the Revolution) and to the Grande Chartreuse. His adventures abound in depictions of Provençal gastronomy - on the Îles Pomègues near Marseille he eats rock samphire growing between the stones, and throughout his journey consumes quantities of olive oil, together with French and Italian wines with detailed mentions of vineyards, quality, and price.
The daily chronicle of his Italian sojourn brims with accounts of storms, pirates, processions, flagellants, carnivals, jeu de paume, horse races, visits to the masterpieces of the Vatican and to the cabinets of curiosities in the Barberini and Ludovisi palaces, to the Doge’s Palace, and to the glassworks of Murano. Faithful to his hometown of Reims, he ranks the beauties of Reims Cathedral above the marvels of the Italian churches. His connections within the clergy of his native city enabling him to travel untroubled. The manuscript contains precious comments and first‑hand testimonies on life in Italy, on the place of the Jews in the cities he visits, and on the debauchery and violence encountered along the way, particularly in Rome, where capital executions and prostitution were commonplace. In Modena, Cocquebert even turns soldier for several months, offering a rare source on the daily life of French troops posted in the duchy of Francesco I d’Este, then preparing to attack the Milanese with Mazarin’s support.