Maquettes de costumes dessinées par Fauconnet pour le Conte d'hiver de Shakespeare, représenté au Théâtre du Vieux-Colombier (Croquis de mode, La Gazette du Bon ton, 1920 n°2)

Set of eight original color engravings, printed on laid paper and signed at the lower right and left of the plates. The plates are introduced by a text signed by Jean Cocteau and depict costumes for Shakespeare’s play (two Shepherdesses, Paulina, and Time).

Bradel binding in full decorative paper, smooth spine, brown shagreen title-piece, binding signed by Goy & Vilaine.

Original engravings created for the illustration of La Gazette du bon ton, one of the most beautiful and influential fashion magazines of the twentieth century, celebrating the talent of French designers and artists at the height of the Art Deco movement.

A celebrated fashion periodical founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, La Gazette du bon ton appeared until 1925, with an interruption between 1915 and 1920 due to the mobilization of its editor-in-chief. It comprises 69 issues printed in only 2,000 copies and is illustrated with 573 color plates and 148 sketches depicting designs by leading couturiers. From the outset, these luxurious publications were addressed “to bibliophiles and worldly aesthetes” (Françoise Tétart-Vittu, “La Gazette du bon ton” in Dictionnaire de la mode, 2016). Printed on fine laid paper, they employed a typeface specially created for the review by Georges Peignot, the Cochin type, later revived by Christian Dior in 1946. The engravings were produced using the pochoir technique, hand-colored and in some cases heightened with gold or palladium.
The venture began in 1912 when Lucien Vogel, a man of fashion and society—already involved with the magazine Femina—decided with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff (sister of Jean, the father of Babar) to establish La Gazette du bon ton, subtitled “Art, modes et frivolités.” Georges Charensol reports the words of the editor-in-chief: “In 1910, he observed, there was no fashion magazine truly artistic and representative of the spirit of its time. I therefore thought of creating a luxury magazine with genuinely modern artists [...] I was certain of success, for in matters of fashion no country can rival France.” (“Un grand éditeur d’art. Lucien Vogel” in Les Nouvelles littéraires, no.133, May 1925). The success of the review was immediate, not only in France but also in the United States and South America.
At the outset, Vogel brought together a group of seven artists: André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud, soon joined by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt; and finally his friends from the École des Beaux-Arts, George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel, and Charles Martin. Other talents quickly joined: Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Édouard Halouze, Alexandre Iacovleff, Jean Émile Laboureur, Charles Loupot, Maggie Salcedo. Most of these artists were unknown when Vogel first engaged them, yet they would later become emblematic and highly sought-after figures in the art world. These same illustrators also created the advertisements for the Gazette.
The plates highlighted and exalted the creations of seven designers of the period: Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet, and Doucet. For each issue, the couturiers provided exclusive designs. Nevertheless, some illustrations did not reproduce actual models but rather conveyed the illustrator’s vision of contemporary fashion.
La Gazette du bon ton represents a decisive stage in the history of fashion. Combining aesthetic refinement with visual unity, it brought together for the first time the leading talents of art, literature, and couture, imposing through this alchemy an entirely new image of womanhood—slender, independent, and bold—further embodied by the new generation of designers such as Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, and Marcel Rochas.
Taken over in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast, La Gazette du bon ton greatly influenced the new composition and aesthetic choices of the “little dying magazine” Nast had acquired a few years earlier: Vogue.