Tiens-toi bien ! Robe d'été de Chéruit (pl.50, La Gazette du Bon ton, 1914 n°5)

Original color print, printed on laid paper, signed at the bottom right of the plate.
Original engraving created for the illustration of La Gazette du bon ton, one of the most beautiful and influential fashion magazines of the 20th century, celebrating the talent of French creators and artists during the flourishing of Art Deco.
Famous fashion magazine founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, La Gazette du bon ton was published until 1925 with an interruption during the War from 1915 to 1920, due to the mobilization of its editor-in-chief. It consists of 69 issues printed in only 2000 copies and is illustrated notably with 573 color plates and 148 sketches representing models by great couturiers. Upon their publication, these luxurious publications "addressed bibliophiles and worldly aesthetes" (Françoise Tétart-Vittu "La Gazette du bon ton" in Dictionnaire de la mode, 2016). Printed on fine laid paper, they use a typeface specially created for the magazine by Georges Peignot, the Cochin typeface, adopted in 1946 by Christian Dior. The prints are created using the metal stencil technique, heightened in colors and for some highlighted with gold or palladium.
The adventure begins in 1912 when Lucien Vogel, a man of society and fashion - he had already participated in the magazine Femina - decides to found with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff (sister of Jean, the father of Babar) the Gazette du bon ton whose subtitle was then "Art, modes et frivolités." Georges Charensol reports the editor-in-chief's words: "En 1910, observe-t-il, il n'existait aucun journal de mode véritablement artistique et représentatif de l'esprit de son époque. Je songeais donc à faire un magazine de luxe avec des artistes véritablement modernes [...] J'étais certain du succès car pour la mode aucun pays ne peut rivaliser avec la France." ["In 1910, he observes, there was no fashion journal that was truly artistic and representative of the spirit of its time. I was therefore thinking of making a luxury magazine with truly modern artists [...] I was certain of success because for fashion no country can rival France."] ("Un grand éditeur d'art. Lucien Vogel" in Les Nouvelles littéraires, n°133, mai 1925). The magazine's success is immediate, not only in France, but also in the United States and South America.
Originally, Vogel thus brings together a group of seven artists: André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud, followed by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt; and finally his friends from the École des beaux-arts who are George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel, or Charles Martin. Other talents quickly join the team: Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Édouard Halouze, Alexandre Iacovleff, Jean Émile Laboureur, Charles Loupot, Maggie Salcedo. These artists, mostly unknown when Lucien Vogel calls upon them, will subsequently become emblematic and sought-after artistic figures. These same illustrators create the drawings for the Gazette's advertisements.
The plates highlight and sublimate the dresses of seven creators of the time: Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet and Doucet. The couturiers provide exclusive models for each issue. Nevertheless, some of the illustrations feature no real model, but only the idea that the illustrator has of contemporary fashion.
La Gazette du bon ton is a decisive step in the history of fashion. Combining aesthetic demands and plastic unity, it brings together for the first time the great talents from the worlds of arts, letters and fashion and imposes, through this alchemy, a completely new image of woman, slender, independent and audacious, also carried by the new generation of couturiers Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Marcel Rochas...
Taken over in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast, the Gazette du bon ton will largely inspire the new composition and aesthetic choices of the "dying little journal" that Nast had bought a few years earlier: Vogue magazine.