Le Cuisinier praticien, ou La Cuisine simple et pratique

First edition, illustrated with in-text vignettes (cf. Vicaire 733; Bitting 391; Cagle 273; NUC: only 2 copies listed. Not in Oberlé, "Fastes").

At the CCF, copies only at the BnF and Sainte-Geneviève.

Contemporary half green sheep binding, spine darkened and faded, decorated with triple blind fillets, marbled paper boards, endpapers and pastedowns, speckled edges.

"Une des particularités de ce traité culinaire, c'est qu'il est 'dédié à la Sainte Vierge, mère de Dieu'" [Vicaire].

Another distinctive feature is that the work, divided into 1,187 paragraphs, exemplifies a scientific method and clarity worthy of a publication by Baillière.

Manuscript ownership inscription at the foot of the title page, occasional foxing.

Reculet (as stated on the title page) was “cook to Madame la comtesse d’Auteroche and Madame la marquise de Courtarvelle at the châteaux of Touchaillon and Lierville.” Which, however, hardly explains why the Virgin Mary should be the dedicatee of a work “qui traite d'une science à laquelle la décence convient si bien” [sic]. Rare and curious.

Division and composition of food substances, culinary principles and laws, culinary theories, preparatory operations, culinary operations: as shown by this brief extract from the table of contents, the author is not only a pious man but also a cook-chemist, an orderly and methodical mind who never embarks on a culinary preparation without first analysing, weighing, classifying, cutting… Technical and chemical terms abound in the first part of the book, but after establishing a clear scientific foundation, the author moves on to more delightful subjects: stocks, broths, meat jellies and aspics, early vegetables and garnishes, pastes, purées, major and minor sauces, stews, garnishes, seasonings, meats (here again, everything must be classified into “series”: major and minor cookings, “high-moisture” preparations, braised dishes, gratins, grilled, fried, sautéed, roasted in the oven…), then follows with fish (also divided into “series”), vegetables (green, white, dried or mixed, always in series), fruits, set creams, bain-marie or iced creams, entremets, and so on. As for cooking temperatures, the author, as one might expect, treats them not vaguely but with scientific precision and reason. The work ends with its devoutly religious dedication.