Fashion

20 full-page lithographs in black by Gustave Doré, in second state.
Red half oblong Bradel-style cloth binding, smooth spine, black morocco title label, marbled paper boards, beige paper endpapers and flyleaves, corners slightly dulled.

First edition of this exhibition catalogue celebrating the 50th anniversary of Tati's existence at the Union centrale des Arts Décoratifs in Paris from March 13 to April 5, 1998.
The catalogue is illustrated with 50 photographs by Xavier Lambours, Jean Larivière, Céline Larmet, Tanguy Loyzance, Toby Mac Farlan Pond, Chema Madoz, Dolorès Marat, Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Sarah Moon, Xavier de Nauw, Judy Olausen, Ouka Lele, Martin Parr, Olivier Rebuffa, Liz Redeal, Paolo Roversi, Richard Schroeder, Michel Séméniako, Malick Sidibé, JeanLoup Sieff, Peggy Sirota, Eric Traoré, Donna Trope and Robert Van der Hilst.
Handsome copy.

Edition illustrated with 10 original color lithographs hors-texte by Jean-Gabriel Domergue, one of 40 numbered copies on Rives vellum.
Half red morocco binding with bands, smooth spine, date gilt at tail, boards, endpapers and pastedowns of moiré and gilt effect paper, covers and spine preserved, top edge gilt, contemporary binding signed Gauché.
The work is also ornamented with 26 illustrations in the text, in one or two tones, as chapter headpieces, tailpieces in red by Jean-Gabriel Domergue.
Handsome copy containing the full suite of 18 in-text illustrations.
Manuscript annotation in blue ballpoint pen on the title page: unique copy.
Indeed, on two hors-texte lithographs (including the frontispiece) and two in-text illustrations representing women clothed or nude, pieces of tulle have been added as dresses.
Furthermore, at the end of the volume, numerous press clippings relating to the life and style of Jean-Gabriel Domergue have been pasted onto the endpapers.
Signed autograph inscription by Pierre Harel-Darc, the dedicatee's name having been properly erased enriched with a signed autograph inscription by Jean-Gabriel Domergue enhanced with an original drawing representing the face of a Parisian woman.

Original double color print, printed on laid paper, signed at bottom right of the plate. 

Original engraving created for the illustration of La Gazette du bon ton, one of the most beautiful and influential fashion magazines of the 20th century, celebrating the talent of French creators and artists in the full bloom of Art Deco. 

Famous fashion magazine founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, La Gazette du bon ton was published until 1925 with an interruption during the War from 1915 to 1920, due to the mobilization of its editor-in-chief. It consists of 69 issues printed in only 2000 copies and is illustrated notably with 573 color plates and 148 sketches representing models by great couturiers. From their publication, these luxurious publications “ addressed bibliophiles and worldly aesthetes ” (Françoise Tétart-Vittu “ La Gazette du bon ton ” in Dictionnaire de la mode, 2016). Printed on fine laid paper, they use a typeface specially created for the magazine by Georges Peignot, the Cochin character, adopted in 1946 by Christian Dior. The prints are created using the metal stencil technique, heightened in colors and some highlighted in gold or palladium.
The adventure begins in 1912 when Lucien Vogel, a man of society and fashion - he had already participated in the magazine Femina - decides to found with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff (sister of Jean, the father of Babar) the Gazette du bon ton whose subtitle was then “ Art, modes et frivolités ”. Georges Charensol reports the words of the editor-in-chief : “ In 1910, he observes, there existed no fashion journal truly artistic and representative of the spirit of its time. I was therefore thinking of making a luxury magazine with truly modern artists [...] I was certain of success because for fashion no country can rival France. ” (“ Un grand éditeur d'art. Lucien Vogel ” in Les Nouvelles littéraires, n°133, May 1925). The magazine's success is immediate, not only in France, but also in the United States and South America.
Originally, Vogel thus assembled a group of seven artists : André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud, followed by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt ; and finally his friends from the École des beaux-arts who are George Barbier, Bernard Boutet de Monvel, or Charles Martin. Other talents quickly join the team : Guy Arnoux, Léon Bakst, Benito, Boutet de Monvel, Umberto Brunelleschi, Chas Laborde, Jean-Gabriel Domergue, Raoul Dufy, Édouard Halouze, Alexandre Iacovleff, Jean Émile Laboureur, Charles Loupot, Charles Martin, Maggie Salcedo. These artists, mostly unknown when Lucien Vogel calls upon them, will later become emblematic and sought-after artistic figures. These same illustrators create the drawings for the Gazette's advertisements.
The plates highlight and sublimate the dresses of seven creators of the time : Lanvin, Doeuillet, Paquin, Poiret, Worth, Vionnet and Doucet. The couturiers provide exclusive models for each issue. Nevertheless, some of the illustrations feature no real model, but only the idea that the illustrator has of the fashion of the day.
La Gazette du bon ton is a decisive stage in the history of fashion. Combining aesthetic demands and visual unity, it brings together for the first time the great talents of the worlds of arts, letters and fashion and imposes, through this alchemy, a completely new image of woman, slender, independent and bold, also carried by the new generation of couturiers Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Marcel Rochas...
Taken over in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast, the Gazette du bon ton would largely inspire the new composition and aesthetic choices of the “ petit journal mourant ” that Nast had bought a few years earlier : Vogue magazine.
 

First edition.
Work complete with its 49 plates hors-texte including 6 in color.
Spine and boards of the chemise lightly and marginally discolored and sunned as usual.